It's about exploring and sharing my creative adventures (mostly sewing these days) ~
~those activities that sometimes obsess, usually inspire, occasionally frustrate
~and always provide a delightful maze to wander through.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

The Marcy T Jacket She is DONE! (and I love it!)

I have to start this post with a huge THANK YOU to the folks at Stitchers Guild who helped me so much with fitting, and especially ejvc, who took a lot of time (during a particularly busy time of her life) to give me numerous bits of golden info that have forever adjusted my ability to fit.   I am SO glad I decided to take the fitting issues (heavily documented in these previous posts) on this jacket to a new level for me - I think it's going to pay off big time in future pattern adjustments :)

Another thing I'm uber grateful for is Penelope, my Grand Dame 201, who did all of the work on this jacket, including sailing smoothly over the valleys and hills created by a thick and juicy fabric, beautiful top stitching (as always), and a stellar job of getting right up next to the hooks and eyes on the tape I used for the closure, using her super-skinny zip foot:
I just loves me a good old
straight stitch vintage Singer :)
The fabric is of unknown origin (a great buy from Fabrix!), but it's a soft, comfy fleece on the inside, and I believe a wool blend on the striped side.  It's quite substantial, and fairly stable for a knit, with maybe about 15% stretch.

As crazy as it may have been to muslin a knit garment with with a woven muslin, it paid off - both in what I learned during the process, and in the finished results :)

I visited Steph while she was house-sitting near me today - perfect timing, since she's also working on her (awesome!) version of this jacket - I hope she has it finished and blogs about it soon - she's doing some piecework on hers, and lining it - it's going to be beautiful!   Here are some shots she took, in my "tough girl" (hah!) outfit:


The bundled funky look, wearing Marcy T pants V8712,
my fabulous Harlequin Feltworks scarf, and of course,
my to-die-for Trippens:

And the not-so-bundled funky look:



I almost forgot to take a shot showing the side and back fit, showing the results of all those muslins:
Unbelievably, I could have removed even MORE fabric from the back and the upper sleeve, but everything else is pretty good.  You can see how the CB seam comes together here.  I could also still add a bit of a shoulder pad on the left shoulder, so I'm not QUITE finished yet....

Heres a close-up of the CB seam, which is topstitched on each side of the seam.   The stitches really sink into this fabric though!   I also topstitched on all of the collar edges, and did 2 lines of stitching on all of the hems.

Some miscellaneous notes about the pattern:

  • The last step on views A and C is to place "one long edge [of the hook and eye tape] along the placement line"....which edge, I wondered.... and then, after just picking one edge & trying it, I realized that it doesn't matter where you place your tape...the placement line is basically just a suggestion, and you can move your tape wherever you want it, thus snugging the jacket up when it's hooked, or loosening the fit.   No need to be anal about this step.
  • Once you know your size, or have any fitting issues worked out, this really is a super quick and easy pattern to make up.   Very little work for such a great result!   And even though it's a bit edgy, your fabric and closure choices can make it into something rather sedate, or something wild and fun :)
  • The collar ROCKS.   Someone asked if I thought the collar pattern could work if fitted onto a different TNT jacket pattern, and I think it would be very easy to do, simply by extending one of the front pieces to accommodate the extra collar length.   

If you've already suffered through all of my muslin-making and notes on this, you can skip the rest of this post; if you're interested in making this pattern up (and I do recommend it!), you may (or may not) find the following details helpful.  :)

Changes I made to the pattern:
Narrowed the shoulders (I usually need to do this, but the shoulders on this pattern are VERY wide)
  • Forward shoulder adjustment (again, I usually do this, but it took several attempts to get it right on this pattern)
  • Lowered the Sleeve Cap.   A LOT.
  • Adjusted the curve of the sleeve.  
  • Eliminated excess fabric from the back at the armscye and upper  side seams.
  • Raised the armscye (which is cut very low in the pattern)
  • I used stay tape instead of fusible interfacing at the shoulder seam.  Minor, but perhaps worth mentioning.
  • Created a back seam, so that I could give the boxy shape a bit more of a fitted look.
  • Shortened the sleeves
  • Broad Biceps adjustment (the nice way of saying arms-that-used-to-be-muscular-and-are-now-just-flabby adjustment)
  • Shortened the jacket even shorter than the short version (and I'm long-waisted!   Go figger.....)   
  • Angled the lower hem so that the back was shorter; front was longer
  • Folded the collar so that the "other" side shows - I like the contrast of the front flap, so extending it to the collar seemed logical to me.
If you're still with me, here are some shots of my pattern pieces placed over the originals:




In conclusion, I not only love my jacket, but I am incredibly grateful for the fitting lessons learned!  I seem to be ready to soak up more pattern adjustment and fit tips; when I met with Steph this morning,  she gave me another bit of golden fitting info that I can't wait to put into use!

I think that it's like many explorations into new territory - everything can seem so overwhelming at first, because there's so much to learn, and then, as you begin to understand things, the next steps get easier and easier, and the "Aha!" moments show up more frequently.  Have you had those turning points in your sewing when everything started to fall into place with more clarity?

Here's to sharing and receiving as many "Aha!" moments as we can, and giving thanks for such a generous community of people willing to share - I'm still incredibly grateful for all of you :)

37 comments:

  1. Wow, you really hung in there, Jilly...and the results show it! Congratulations! LOVE the jacket (and your tough girl look...we should really hang out in our TG outfits...)

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    1. Oh yeah baby, we're tuff and we know how to show it! ;D

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  2. the jacket turned out great and I especially love the hook and eye tape.
    You really did achieve a very flattering fit on that!

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  3. Love this!!! You did a fabulous job and it looks wonderful

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    1. Thanks Peggy! I'm looking forward to hearing about your next adventure.... :)

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  4. Outstanding! and unique. Love your trippens!

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  5. Oh my, so cute! I love the hook and eye tape. It must be a ton of fun to wear!
    ~Teri

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    1. I've been wearing it all day (inside and outside) so I think you're right lol!

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  6. Well, no matter how much I can fit I'll never have your STYLE. Fantastic. Aren't 201s great?

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    1. Woot! I don't think anyone has ever said "I'll never have your STYLE" to me before. Let me take a moment to just soak that in, ok, because I don't even know how to respond to it? And yes, my bar-none favorite SM is my 201 :)

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  7. It's a fantastic jacket! Love all the details and I'm glad that you learned so much about fitting your body.

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    1. Believe me, I'm THRILLED with the fitting lessons I'm taking out of this!

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  8. Great looking jacket, Jilly. So great you finished it so quickly, after so many muslins. Your hard work with fitting really paid off. And that hook and eye tape is to die for!

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    1. Hearing that you love a closure is definitely a good thing! ;D

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  9. w00t!!! Go Jilly! these pictures are wonderful (ahem, heehee!) And i especially love the 'funky bundled' look with the boots and pants - oh yeah.

    But ladies i have to tell you that this jacket kicks even more @ss in real life! It is much tougher (those hooks and eyes are substantial, and the selvedge edge is all bidness) and at the same time even more flattering in real life - the grey of the fabric has a blue cast that brings out our heroine's gorgeous eyes. A knockout!

    Jilly, i know you think you could take a bit out of the back shoulder/sleeve cap but seeing you wearing the jacket and moving around i didn't find it noteworthy at all.....and to my eye, when you bring your arms forward it takes up ALL the ease that's there. Any less and the fabric will start taking the strain. As always, after a certain point it's a judgement call, pure and simple, and as such it's 'maker's choice'! I do get extra nervous about this type of thing since i am HARD on clothes, and with my opposite-to-yours frame i ripped out shoulders on a number of pajamas and nightgowns growing up :) IOW, grain of salt.

    i'm so glad you posted your pattern pieces, i was kicking myself for not getting a look at them earlier! Your great success has got me very motivated to get my jacket done and posted - take care and enjoy your new duds! steph

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    1. Gosh, thanks Steph! You're right about the blue tinge - I keep thinking I'd like a pale silvery-bluey top; I think it might be a good color for me. I think you're right about the back ease as well; when I pull my arms all the way forward the fabric across the back is taut.

      Now get cracking on your jacket! Can't wait to see the finished piece!

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  10. Looking at this jacket--gorgeous by the way--it is hard to believe that you had any problems with it. A lot of fortitude, help, and a cooperative sewing machine make it seem so simple in the end. This reminds me of a professional skater or musician: they make it seem so simple. Good work!

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  11. Lovely jacket and you achieved a very good fit. I like the Annie Hall AKA 'bundled up' look on you.

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  12. Your jacket looks fabulous. Congratulations!

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  13. Great jacket - my pattern arrived in the mail today - now I want to make it straight away!

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  14. JillyBe, the jacket is FABULOUS!!!! I knew it would be, but I am still bowled over. Your persistence on the fitting is so impressive and so worth it!!!! Ooh, I want this now. :D

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  15. Jilly that jacket looks fabulous on you, you have done a great job of adapting it to fit your body and your style. I have been following along on your fitting journey on SG and think that your efforts (and everyones) responses will be valuable to many! I wish I had a local source for the delightful hook and eye tape, it would be so much fun to use on one of my projects. I love how it makes a kind of patterned design line down the front of your jacket, much more effectively than a zipper would have

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  16. This is awesome! It looks fantastic, and the fit is great. The hook and eye tape really makes the jacket look polished and funky.

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  17. this looks fantastic, so well worth the effort. Enjoy wearing it.

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  18. Isn't it wonderful to have a well-fitting jacket that is also a unique design? The perfect combo! Congrats to you for persevering through the fitting process because your efforts certainly paid off.

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  19. All your hard (frustration) paid off. FABULOUS!

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  20. Isn't it wonderful when hard work pays off? You look great--and the collar is awesome.

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  21. JillyBe--Congratulations! Your perseverence in the fitting process really paid off. Your jacket is fantastic and is very flattering on you. I especially love the "bundled funky" look!

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  22. I love how this one turned out! Love the edgy feel the hook and eyes give to it!

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  23. love that fit and that hook-and-eye tape! :-)

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  24. ooh...so Bada$$! Perfectly fitting and tuned to your personal style too. Way to go, Jill! I wonder - does anyone fit into a pattern right out of the envelope? I am so envious of the time and effort they must save. On the other hand, learning how to fit the body you have (as opposed to the one the near-mythical size 10 fit model has) is a worthwhile skill to develop!

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  25. What a beautiful jacket. You make we want something similar. I LOVE it.

    Your hard work paid off. ENjoy wearing it.

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  26. WOW!!! 75 adjectives wouldn't be enough!!!...neither would 75 exclamation points!!! You are so styl'n in that. TG or Marcy pants...perfect in every way. When you were going to shorten it...I thought it looked perfect the way it was, but I was wrong...it is beyond perfect now!!! I'm going to make Marcy pants. I prefer longer tops/jackets, but no...I need to make a short top to wear with them...waaaay more stylish!!! !!! !!!

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  27. I swear- sometimes I look at your work and get so enthused I start composing a big comment only to find out I'd already gushed over it. This jacket would earn a double gush- I love it.

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  28. Well now - that is one very nice jacket! Love it :)

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