The Pattern: (I'm not sure where this model thinks she's going - she certainly appears to be ready to soar. Or something...
Lynn Mizono's Vogue 1312. In spite of being a declared non-dress wearer, I am warming up to the concept and keep finding more dress patterns sneaking onto my cutting table. This is now my second made dress! To add to the 2 (sleeveless, very casual, summer frocks) I already own. Which makes a grand total of 4 in my closet. I think this makes me rather the odd one out in this dress-sewing crowd! At any rate, this one I wanted to make from the moment I saw the pattern! There was a bit of a drawback in that it calls for nearly 5 yards of fabric, and I didn't have anything suitable in stash of that quantity. Even finding something I liked that fit in my frugal budget was proving a challenge! I'm pretty sure that I used something closer to 4 yards in the end.
The Fabric: The pattern calls for lightweight fabrics - I ended up using something I would call a "winter weight" - quite substantial, and a bit of a concern because of the possibility that it would pull the dress down. It's a lovely stretch woven - another find from Fabrix - a burn test was inconclusive, but the important part of it to me is that it feels quite yummy :) And in the end it's stable enough that I think it will hold its shape nicely. I lined the bodice with a stretch Bemberg rayon, which has just a little less stretch than the fashion fabric, and they played well together.
The Fitting: I muslined the bodice, and ended up doing my usual narrow/sloping/forward shoulder adjustments. I also thought the neckline was too wide for me, so I added 1/2" all the way round the neck. This turned out to be perfect. The muslin (in a woven) wiggled over my head easily enough, so I eliminated the zipper. If I make another one, in a summery woven (which is very likely!) I will probably fit the bodice a bit more snugly and add the zipper.
I used a very scientific and precise method of tissue fitting to determine the appropriate length, documented in these pictures:
|Length of pattern as drawn|
|Carefully folded up a precise 4" -|
the length I decided on
I'm 5'4" (almost), and I'm happy with the length shortened by 4".
The Process: This is a well-drafted pattern, and the instructions are clear and easy. (Yay!) Everything went together beautifully. All of the pictures and instructions that one would need are right in the pattern envelope :)
I did take a little side trip when I decided to add pockets - I blogged about my method here in my previous post.
Here's a look at the partially made dress, with the upper portion of the skirt attached to the bodice. A short skirt lover could stop right here if they wanted! The lower skirt is simply 4 rectangles sewn together - very easy to shorten the length after it's all put together, if you wanted to wait until that point.
One simply must do The Pose.
|Because I'm also going to pose like this|
on a regular basis.....
|LOVE me a pocket!!!|
Don Pezzano of Urbandon - if you're not familiar with his work, check him out! Mostly he designs and makes menswear, but his jewelry is unique and amazing!
So, where should I go with my version of the LBD?
Next up: A 'should-probably-have-my-head-examined' project - something I made once and sweated blood and tears over, and in the end get very little (if any) wear out of....and I'm doing it again? Yes, yes I am. To be revealed....