It's about exploring and sharing my creative adventures (mostly sewing these days) ~
~those activities that sometimes obsess, usually inspire, occasionally frustrate
~and always provide a delightful maze to wander through.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Style Arc Jilly Jeans - it's about the Pockets

Huzzah!  I've completed my second pair of jeans!  Style Arc Jilly Jeans (which of course I needed to make).  I'll compare them to my first pair of Jalie jeans next (photo session isn't done yet, because frankly, I'd rather be sewing than taking pictures & blogging....)  

For now, it's all about the front pockets.  Jilly Jeans Pockets for Dummies, if you will.  There aren't very many reviews for this pattern, and I suspect that is mainly because of Style Arc's infamous lack of hand-holding instructions, coupled with the fact that making jeans really kind of of needs a bit of hand-holding, at least the first time through.  I hope to provide a bit of hand-holding, because there are aspects of this pattern that I really like, and hope that more people try it!  A few reviewers said they couldn't make any sense at all out of the front pocket instructions, but I was determined to muck through it and figure them out, and in the end, I do like their method!

The pocket bag is all one piece, folded over - I like the simplicity of this!  The instructions, however, are anything but simple...or maybe they're too simple... at any rate, if you've never done this type of pocket before, here's the 101 for dummies hand-holding pictorial version.

1.  Finish the curved edge of the pocket facing (I serged it)

2.   Sew WS of front pocket facing to RS of pocket bag along all edges of the facing.

View of pocket facing sewn on from the back
Note:  the facing is visible after jeans are finished, so this is denim.   
The pocket bag I cut from cotton flannel - warm and comfy :)  :

3.  With RS together, sew the curved top edge of the pocket opening on the jeans front to the matching curve of the pocket bag (the other end of the pocket bag from the end you just sewed the facing on to)  
Note:  I opted to do a cut-on fly, so my jeans front pattern piece looks different than the Style Arc piece.

4.  Turn WS together, press and top stitch the curved pocket opening:
View from reverse side:

5.  Sew the coin pocket to the right side pocket facing (the pattern has notches indicating the placement of the coin pocket)  I made some notes on my coin pocket pattern piece, since it wasn't immediately clear to me while cutting it out which side was up:

6.  Fold pocket bag in half.  Sew the bottom curved edges of the pocket bag together; finish (serge) the seam:

That's it!  Not hard at all.  Once you know what you're doing....

The finished jeans, and my comparison of the Jillys to the Jalies is coming up next...


  1. That's really cool way to do the pocket. Thanks for the tutorial. I'm not sure I would figured that out!

  2. Excellent tutorial, Jilly! I can see where those directions could be confusing if sparse in detail - and especially no pictures.

  3. These jeans-to-be are looking good! I like the fun touch of flannel in the pocket lining.

  4. A great explanation of this method. It's the same way the Sandra Betzina jeans pattern does the pockets. I'm torn between this and having the pocket bag extend into the fly to form a stay, a method Jen Stern Hasemann teaches in her jeans classes, so I'm trying both in my jeans to see which I like to wear better.

  5. Thank you for the excellent tutorial!

  6. Of course you had to try the Jillys. Why do pattern makers leave out the sewing details? There really is no good excuse these days, is there? Your pocket tutorial is very clear. Well done!