It's about exploring and sharing my creative adventures (mostly sewing these days) ~
~those activities that sometimes obsess, usually inspire, occasionally frustrate
~and always provide a delightful maze to wander through.
Showing posts with label Marcy Tilton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marcy Tilton. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

The Sisters Tilton and Their Fabulous T's! (Craftsy Class Review)



Many of you are probably already aware that Marcy and Katherine Tilton are offering a Craftsy Class called "The Ultimate T-Shirt".   This class was on my Wish List - I'd not taken a Craftsy class yet, but this was one that was definitely calling to me, so when I received an offer to review the class on my blog in exchange for receiving the class for free (woo hoo!) I jumped right on it! Regarding honest reviews, if you know me at all well, you will know that if you ask me for an honest opinion/constructive criticism, an honest opinion is what you'll get!  So I approached this class with an assumption that I would probably get some valuable info from it, but also kept a critical eye wide open, actively looking for areas I thought could be improved on.

The Class Basics, and Format - "The Ultimate T-Shirt: Fitting and Construction", taught by the Sisters Tilton (Katherine and Marcy).   This was my first Craftsy Class, and overall I'm quite impressed!   I must say that I think the Craftsy website could use some tweaking to make it easier to navigate and quit freezing up,  but that's a separate issue *(I posted some notes at the end of this review) - this class, in my opinion, is definitely a winner!  The format is easy to follow, with several segments covering different aspects of the class, including:
  • Fabric Choice - very nice, succinct review of easy to difficult choices in knits.
  • Fit (fairly basic; you are expected to already know a bit about your own body's fit needs), but their tips on fitting-as-you-go can really help take the mystery out of some fitting issues, and are fabulous in terms of working with different fabrics, which can behave very differently.  They give great tips both on marking and trying on at the pattern level, to tweaking at various steps along the way.  There are helpful hints and/or reminders for the more experienced, and some invaluable info for those who are new to knits.
  • Neckline - They each give very detailed instructions on their favorite basic necklines - Katherine teaches a wraparound bound neckline, and Marcy teaches what she calls a "classic" neckline.  I was dying to know details about some of their more elaborate and arty necklines - perhaps another class, ladies??? 
  • Sewing Tips, including seam finishes and tips for working with rolling fabric edges, several different hemming options,  and tips for sewing in sleeves.
The Pattern - (Included as part of the class fee) Vogue 8793,

Katherine's Zipper Collar t-shirt.  I already had the pattern, and have made a couple of T's from it, (blogged here).   I thought I loved this pattern because of the unusual collar; now I also love the pattern because I see how versatile the basic T is, and I have a new understanding of how to alter, tweak, fit, embellish, and design a myriad of T's from one basic pattern!   Stoked!

The Instructors - if you've followed my blog for any time, you already know that I'm a huge fan of the patterns and artistic visions that both Marcy and Katherine have developed.   I've never taken a class from either of them, and I'm delighted to say that I would jump at the chance to take another class from either or both of them!  Their teaching manner was very easy to follow, and  they were clear, concise, informative, and easy to listen to and follow.  Their years of experience are so evident, and their friendliness and willingness to share is a delight - reading the questions put on the site by students, and their clear and thorough answers, is another treat that expands the class experience wonderfully!

Who Should Take the Class - I'm certainly no knit expert, but I've turned out a fair number of knit t-shirts and other garments that I'm very happy with, and I've picked up a lot of tips along the way....but I definitely loaded up on several very valuable hints thanks to this class!   I also got a kick in the butt to start being more consistent with a few habits that I often let go by the wayside (like always stay stitching the neckline starting at the shoulders and stitching to the center front and center back).   If you have basic sewing skills, but limited experience with knits, this class should set your mind at ease and put you well on the road to sewing knits with more confidence.  The only reason that would hesitate to recommend this class for someone who has NEVER sewn with knits before is that a few tips that really helped me when I started are not included - one for instance is the importance of finding an accurate grainline before cutting (I might be a bit anal about this, but my first experience with cutting knits was with someone who stressed this, and I've always really appreciated that!).  And perhaps at the other end of the spectrum - someone who considers themselves a Complete Expert at sewing with knits - might not pick much up.  ANYone else - go for it!

Criticisms - I messed up in one spot,  and this probably has more to do with how I tend to do things than it does with the class itself, but I'll toss it out there anyway.  I do tend to jump ahead of things when I think I've "got it", and/or I assume that a step was skipped over (as is often the case with both patterns and teachers!) so I do it my way and keep going.....and then, later on, sometimes discover that it wasn't a skipped step at all!  (and out comes the seam ripper.....)

This happened at the shoulder sewing step - only ONE shoulder is sewn, and then you move on to the neckband.  I, of course, did NOT listen to the whole class before diving in; I was sewing as I listened, and on this step I sewed up the second shoulder seam before getting to the neckband.   For someone like me, it would have been nice to say something like "We'll be sewing up the other shoulder seam AFTER sewing on the neckband."  (Note:  I prefer to have my neckband seam at the BACK of the shirt, instead of at the shoulder seam, which is why I skipped ahead here.  The Tiltons both place the band seam at the shoulder seam, but I, personally, don't like the extra bulk it adds there, so I did not unpick my sewn and topstitched shoulder seam on my first t-shirt, and did the neckband my way instead).  I did use their method on my second t-shirt, and while the neckband turned out very well, I still didn't like all that bulk at the shoulder seam, so I'll probably continue to place my band seam at the back, no matter what sort of band I use.

Conclusion - Two Thumbs Way Up, for sure!

My T-Shirts:
Using Marcy's "classic" neckband,
with double stitching details
I used 3 fabrics, all rayon jersey knits of varying weights.


For this T, I used my variation of sleeves from the Au Bonheur Asymmetric T (blogged here)...
 ...and I added some piping to Katherine's version of the neckband.  
It was so easy to make alterations on the basic T-shirt, thanks to their guidance!

For my third version, I used Katherine's neckband,
and I used the sleeve bands from the original pattern.


All three t-shirts are being worn and loved - I have summery sleeves, a warm weather featherweight fabric in the black & white T, and a cooler weather T in the brown & green fabrics.

Some details about the b&w T:   When I draped the striped fabric on my arms, trying to figure out how long I wanted to make them, a rather serendipitous folding of the fabric happened.   I really liked the way the white stripes popped out - this was the fabric actually folding itself so that the white folded outward, and the black settled back:

So I decided to play that up, and cut the sleeves long, then gathered the ends of the sleeves:

Once I gathered the seams, I stitched them in place, 
creating a curve when the sleeve was placed flat:

 The sleeve gathers at the wrist, and the white stripes pop out:

This black T is probably my favorite of the 3, and is getting the most wear - love those sleeves!

Overall, I highly recommend this class, and I'm delighted to have it in my repertoire!   Once you've purchased a Craftsy Class, you can refer to it over and over, so it's kind of like having your personal instructors right there in your sewing room with you!   Thanks so much to you, Katherine and Marcy!

*I e-mailed Craftsy and received immediate responses to my issues about navigating through the site.  I don't know yet if all of my issues were addressed satisfactorily (I still sometimes have to switch browsers in order to fully access the class), but I will say that the folks at Craftsy were VERY responsive and helpful, so big pluses there!   One note about the class reviews - they ONLY publish the most recent positive reviews for any given class, which annoys me because you don't get to read about what folks did not like - that's constructive criticism, and in my mind, is VERY valuable information.   However, you CAN contact the Craftsy folks and ask for a full set of reviews for a class you're interested in, which they will provide.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Tilton Top #2 and the Vintage Kimono

My previous post showed the toile-cum-finished-jacket (V8088) that was originally meant to be the fitting practice for Jacket #2, detailed here.

The starting point was a fabulous fabric that began its life as a kimono.  This one was gifted to me many years ago, but as much as I loved it, it just wasn't a piece I wore.   For years I kept wondering how to make it wearable, and finally this pattern filled the inspirational void :).   I ripped apart all of the kimono panels without taking pictures of the original, but here's a bit that survived:
This lovely bit of embroidery was at the top back of the original kimono, applied after the two back pieces were sewn together.  I left the two pieces sewn together in order to preserve the embroidery, and it ended up in the same spot on my new piece.   Perfect!  :)
(Aside:  does anyone know if this symbol has any particular meaning?)  Update:  Louisa has identified this as a "Mon", or family crest.  This one may be the "Paulonia", a plant.   Absolutely fascinating topic - the things you learn in this multi-talented world of sewists!

A note about vintage kimonos (the real deal):  good heavens do those simple looking designs take a LOT of intricate folding and sewing!!!   This one was made from a number of panels, about 12-18" wide, and the sleeves alone took me a couple of hours to unpick!  I wonder how long it took to sew in the first place?  (all hand sewn of course).

After I had it all apart I hand washed it, and I have NEVER washed such stinky fabric!  I did some research on silk, and discovered that the stinkiest stuff comes from silk that has been processed very little.   So, although this fabric uses incredibly fine (but very strong!) threads, it clearly did not go through much processing.   You can see here just how fine the finished fabric is:

This was SUCH a pleasure to work with!  The fabric feels a little crepe-y, not silky-slippery at all, and in spite of the delicate look, it's so strong that it just laughed at me through my un-picking (which there was a lot of)  :(

After un-stitching the kimono, I laid out all of the pieces and figured out how to piece them back together to fit all of my pattern pieces on - no small feat here!   Then I stitched the pieces back together (using silk thread on Penelope, my beloved Singer 201), cut them out, and packed them up for a weekend of sewing with a few friends (a HIGHLY recommended way of taking a sewcation!)   I brought a Featherweight, and discovered a valuable lesson about testing threads in different machines - my Feather HATED sewing with silk thread!   I don't even want to admit how may hours I spent trying to figure out how to adjust the tension, the pressure, the way I was feeding the fabric.....all to no avail!   Finally I stole some Gutterman from one of my well-stocked friends, and wouldn't you know it....smooth sailing after that!

Once that was out of the way, and since I already had the fit figured out (see previous post for details), it went together beautifully.   I did add interfacing to the neckline and front edges, inside the hem (which is deep).   And I finished all of the hems with a straight stitch, instead of the zig-zag or deco stitch that's called for.

I wanted to add some embellishment touches (but not too much!....y'all know I can sometimes go a bit over the top....), and it took me awhile to ponder and play, but I'm happy with the end results.   Actually, very happy.  :)

Front View:

Close-up, showing trim details:

There were 3 embroidered symbols in the original kimono - the one at center back, and one on each sleeve.   Figuring out the placement of the other two was a bit of a challenge (given the size of the panels), and a bit limiting.   Then, when the piece was done, the folds tended to fall in such a way that the embroidery disappeared.   My solution was to sew a box pleat around each one, which makes the embroidery more likely to show up while wearing.   The trim is a fairly thick "faux braid", and some petersham that matches the braid perfectly.    

Back View:

Side View:

Close up of embellishments on sleeve ends and triangle point:

After trips to 3 different stores, which ended in buying a new wireless controller for my camera, I decided it was worth it to change clothes and do a photo shoot, so here I am, in my Spring Garden,  in the outfit I wore to a party last weekend:



Using the Flash shows the sheer aspect of the fabric:


Although I suspect that Version #1 will get  more wear than this one, I love this one just as much (if not more....)   It's positively yummy to wear, but a bit dressier, so will likely be worn more for semi-special occasions.   Anyone want to go out to dinner at a nice restaurant?  ;-D

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Another Marcy T Winner - #1 of 2

If I combine my Marcy and Katherine Tilton patterns and pretend they're a single designer (which they definitely are NOT, albeit there are design similarities), I'm pretty sure that at this point I've made up more of their patterns than any other single designer.

I must like what they do.  :)

This time it's Marcy's V8088, now OOP, and I'm SO glad I have it!   I made up my version of the jacket using a freebie fabric from one of my local sewing groups.   LOVE the fabric print, and even though it's almost certainly a poly/nylon sort of blend, it's thin and fairly breathable, and besides I LOVE the fabric print!  (did I say that already?)

I meant this fabric as a practice piece, and sewed it muslin style (i.e., sloppy basting stitches, unfinished edges), but ended up liking it so much that I took it apart, made my alterations and sewed it up 'for real'.  The results have given me an outfit that is getting a whole lot of wear lately!

The rusts, deep sagey blue-greens, beiges and burgundys coordinate with a lot of other pieces in my wardrobe, and anything that dresses up jeans just a little is a winner in my book!

The alterations:

1.  Shortened it by about 2".   Be careful here!   What I thought about shortening the back was wrong - it's deceptive.  There are triangular side pieces that can easily throw you off - I shortened the back and ended up needing to eliminate the 1" hem on the back piece in order to have it meet the sides.  Definitely do a muslin if you want to change the length!
2.  I cut in the armscye (which is also an oddly cut piece) by over an inch for my narrow shoulders.   I did not change the sleeve cap at all - cutting in the armscye and leaving the sleeve cap as is sometimes works out fine for me, since I really dislike sleeve puckers.
3.  The sleeves have a facing that is turned back to form the cuff.   After I sewed the facing on, I sort of liked the look of turning back the cuff, but leaving the facing free to hang down.   So I sewed a hem on the end of the facing, essentially re-designing the "cuff".
4.  I didn't use any contrasting fabrics or embellishments; and I used a decorative stitch to finish the hems and edges (the pattern just calls for a zig-zag)

This jacket has garnered a lot of compliments, no matter what I pair it with - a definite winner!


I immediately set to work on making a version in what was to be my Final Fashion Fabric - it's another winner, but I don't have pics yet.   That post will be coming up soon....

Isn't it fun when a muslin/practice piece/toile ends up being a wardrobe winner?   Have you had unexpected successes like that?   Feel free to link your success stories in your comments...I'll add them to the post, if you would like :)

Sunday, October 21, 2012

The Marcy T Jacket She is DONE! (and I love it!)

I have to start this post with a huge THANK YOU to the folks at Stitchers Guild who helped me so much with fitting, and especially ejvc, who took a lot of time (during a particularly busy time of her life) to give me numerous bits of golden info that have forever adjusted my ability to fit.   I am SO glad I decided to take the fitting issues (heavily documented in these previous posts) on this jacket to a new level for me - I think it's going to pay off big time in future pattern adjustments :)

Another thing I'm uber grateful for is Penelope, my Grand Dame 201, who did all of the work on this jacket, including sailing smoothly over the valleys and hills created by a thick and juicy fabric, beautiful top stitching (as always), and a stellar job of getting right up next to the hooks and eyes on the tape I used for the closure, using her super-skinny zip foot:
I just loves me a good old
straight stitch vintage Singer :)
The fabric is of unknown origin (a great buy from Fabrix!), but it's a soft, comfy fleece on the inside, and I believe a wool blend on the striped side.  It's quite substantial, and fairly stable for a knit, with maybe about 15% stretch.

As crazy as it may have been to muslin a knit garment with with a woven muslin, it paid off - both in what I learned during the process, and in the finished results :)

I visited Steph while she was house-sitting near me today - perfect timing, since she's also working on her (awesome!) version of this jacket - I hope she has it finished and blogs about it soon - she's doing some piecework on hers, and lining it - it's going to be beautiful!   Here are some shots she took, in my "tough girl" (hah!) outfit:


The bundled funky look, wearing Marcy T pants V8712,
my fabulous Harlequin Feltworks scarf, and of course,
my to-die-for Trippens:

And the not-so-bundled funky look:



I almost forgot to take a shot showing the side and back fit, showing the results of all those muslins:
Unbelievably, I could have removed even MORE fabric from the back and the upper sleeve, but everything else is pretty good.  You can see how the CB seam comes together here.  I could also still add a bit of a shoulder pad on the left shoulder, so I'm not QUITE finished yet....

Heres a close-up of the CB seam, which is topstitched on each side of the seam.   The stitches really sink into this fabric though!   I also topstitched on all of the collar edges, and did 2 lines of stitching on all of the hems.

Some miscellaneous notes about the pattern:

  • The last step on views A and C is to place "one long edge [of the hook and eye tape] along the placement line"....which edge, I wondered.... and then, after just picking one edge & trying it, I realized that it doesn't matter where you place your tape...the placement line is basically just a suggestion, and you can move your tape wherever you want it, thus snugging the jacket up when it's hooked, or loosening the fit.   No need to be anal about this step.
  • Once you know your size, or have any fitting issues worked out, this really is a super quick and easy pattern to make up.   Very little work for such a great result!   And even though it's a bit edgy, your fabric and closure choices can make it into something rather sedate, or something wild and fun :)
  • The collar ROCKS.   Someone asked if I thought the collar pattern could work if fitted onto a different TNT jacket pattern, and I think it would be very easy to do, simply by extending one of the front pieces to accommodate the extra collar length.   

If you've already suffered through all of my muslin-making and notes on this, you can skip the rest of this post; if you're interested in making this pattern up (and I do recommend it!), you may (or may not) find the following details helpful.  :)

Changes I made to the pattern:
Narrowed the shoulders (I usually need to do this, but the shoulders on this pattern are VERY wide)
  • Forward shoulder adjustment (again, I usually do this, but it took several attempts to get it right on this pattern)
  • Lowered the Sleeve Cap.   A LOT.
  • Adjusted the curve of the sleeve.  
  • Eliminated excess fabric from the back at the armscye and upper  side seams.
  • Raised the armscye (which is cut very low in the pattern)
  • I used stay tape instead of fusible interfacing at the shoulder seam.  Minor, but perhaps worth mentioning.
  • Created a back seam, so that I could give the boxy shape a bit more of a fitted look.
  • Shortened the sleeves
  • Broad Biceps adjustment (the nice way of saying arms-that-used-to-be-muscular-and-are-now-just-flabby adjustment)
  • Shortened the jacket even shorter than the short version (and I'm long-waisted!   Go figger.....)   
  • Angled the lower hem so that the back was shorter; front was longer
  • Folded the collar so that the "other" side shows - I like the contrast of the front flap, so extending it to the collar seemed logical to me.
If you're still with me, here are some shots of my pattern pieces placed over the originals:




In conclusion, I not only love my jacket, but I am incredibly grateful for the fitting lessons learned!  I seem to be ready to soak up more pattern adjustment and fit tips; when I met with Steph this morning,  she gave me another bit of golden fitting info that I can't wait to put into use!

I think that it's like many explorations into new territory - everything can seem so overwhelming at first, because there's so much to learn, and then, as you begin to understand things, the next steps get easier and easier, and the "Aha!" moments show up more frequently.  Have you had those turning points in your sewing when everything started to fall into place with more clarity?

Here's to sharing and receiving as many "Aha!" moments as we can, and giving thanks for such a generous community of people willing to share - I'm still incredibly grateful for all of you :)

Friday, October 19, 2012

V8795 - Muslin #something.5 - the Last one. Really.

I futzed and fussed on this all evening.   And it was worth it!  Even if I don't end up with "perfection" (whatever that is) on this jacket, I have learned SO much about fitting, mostly thanks to the wonderfully helpful hints from the sewists over at Stitchers Guild, and especially thanks to the thoughtful comment that the fabulous dr. e made in yesterday's post, which I swear has given me more confidence and helpful hints about fitting in one short page than entire books that I've read!

Following her advice, I was feeling optimistic enough to continue with some sleeve adjustments, which I'll do my best to document with some degree of clarity here...

I removed one sleeve, marked the grainline on the fabric from the the shoulder seam down, and pinned it back in place.  You can see the grainline marked in pen here:

I unpinned the sleeve, moved the seamline placement dot back about 1/2", drew a new grainline (in green) down to the wrist, rotated the sleeve forward to match up the new dot at the seamline, and pinned the sleeve back on:
You can see that the new grainline is set just a bit further back from the original, but still sits pretty far forward on the arm.   There will be more about this later....  However, a lot of the poofiness in the sleeve cap has been evened out between front and back.

Here's a shot of the back at this point.  I've done nothing to the left sleeve, and you can already see the difference!  I'm noticing a more distinct difference in the slope of my shoulders though...it may be time to find another bodyworker....  hmpf.


Next step was to unpin the sleeve cap above the notches, and smooth them into the armhole.   This is where a fit buddy could really come in handy!   Alas, I was not able to conjure up a fit buddy, and the cats are utterly worthless when it comes to handling pins.

Sleeve stitched back in place.   Looking better....not there yet......  I also shortened the jacket - it's just rough pinned in place, but it's definitely improving the overall hang!

Back, shortened.  Better!

The right arm is looking much much better from all sides!

Here's the (already much altered!) sleeve with the new seam line marked.   I made even more changes after this, but that was a lot of excess removed from the front!:

After another little adjustment.  Or two.  Or maybe 3.... and here's what my sleeve looks like overlaid on the original:

I mentioned in yesterday's post that I had removed over 1/2" of fabric from the back at the upper end of the side seam.   A little light bulb went off today and I realized that I also needed to remove some fabric from the armscye above the side seam, so that the armscye curve would still be in sync with the sleeve cap.   Sorry, no picture of this, but I hope the concept makes sense.

Another light bulb came on when I laid my sleeve on top of the original - see the green line that actually DOES run from the shoulder seam to the wrist?  That's the new grainline (the one I drew originally is squiggled over), and here's the twist - the new line actually matches the grainline on the original pattern!   With all of the tweaks I had done, and mostly, I think, when I did the broad arm adjustment, the grainline was thrown off when I cut the pattern piece.   That alone will probably take care of some of the remaining wrinkles when I cut into the Fashion Fabric (FF).  I hope.....

I made some adjustments to the hemline, tweaked the sleeve cap a bit more, and by Jove, I really do think I've (almost) got it!  The right arm in the following pic has had more of the final adjustments done to it than the left:

But even the left side isn't looking too bad (I still have some hemline tweaking to do here though):

For the life of me I could NOT get a decent picture of the back...by the time I twisted around to get the camera bleeping with the remote, I couldn't seem to get standing straight in time for the pic, but that's life, eh?

I daresay I'm ready to cut into the FF!   Have I mentioned that it has stripes?   That I'll need to match up on the curves in the back and side seams?   Because I wouldn't want you to think that it's all going to be so terribly easy from here on out.   Let's just hope that the knit factor of the FF doesn't leave me with a baggy mess, after all this fitting!

But even if it does, I've learned more than I dreamed I would in this process, and it feels like a mini-course in fitting.

And that feels pretty good :)

ETA:  4 a.m.  I couldn't stop.
FF is all cut out except for sleeves, & I've started assembling it.
LOVING it!
Started making mistakes = Bedtime.
Sweet dreams :)