It's about exploring and sharing my creative adventures (mostly sewing these days) ~
~those activities that sometimes obsess, usually inspire, occasionally frustrate
~and always provide a delightful maze to wander through.
Showing posts with label Shoulder Fit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shoulder Fit. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

A question, A Whimper, and some Shoulder/Sleeve Ease Notes

1.  The question:  I'm almost done with my second version of Katharine Tilton's fabulous zipper-collar T (V8793) (post coming soon).  In this pattern she calls for stabilizing the shoulder seams with fusible interfacing on the BACK shoulder seams.  I've always placed it on the front seam, with the theory that there's usually more pull on the front.   Any thoughts on this from the experienced knit sewists out there?  Does it really make any difference?


2.  The Whimper:  My clothes are starting to hang on me, because I've lost a bit of weight, even though I'm not trying to (for anyone who IS trying, I support you totally!  Don't hate on me, 'k?).  It's not that I can't afford to lose a few pounds, but dangit!!!   All those clothes I put SO much fitting time & energy into!   And this is coming at a time when I'm actually trying to make clothes more form-fitting, so everything that was "comfortably loose" before, is now being seen through my eyes as "uncomfortably baggy".  I usually lose a bit in the summertime anyway, and gain it back in the wintery months, but summer hasn't even started yet!  I really don't want to gain the weight back..... but dangit!


3.  The Sleeve Ease & Shoulder Adjustment Notes:  I'm consciously trying to perfect a basic knit T top TNT pattern, and I made a number of adjustments on the K Tilton pattern, working towards that end.  I thought I'd post what I've found so far -  Maybe someone out there will find this info helpful, and maybe someone will have some helpful tidbits to add.

My shoulders usually need the following 3 adjustments:  Forward, Narrow, Sloping.   I also have a slightly broad back.   And I really hate gathered sleeves (on me).  You will never.  ever.  see me wearing poofy sleeves.  Promise.

Some time ago this led me to Kathleen Fasinella's Sleeve cap ease is bogus principle, and I've been practicing it and applying it to patterns ever since.   I'm getting closer, and one of these days I'll get it right!

Here are my pattern pieces, laid on top of the original pattern,  with notes (because there's no way I can describe this without pictures!) (please biggify for the details)



I find that these adjustments nearly eliminate the wide baggy bit I often get under the arms of most knit patterns, put my shoulder seam at rest where it should be, and allow me full freedom of arm movement while still having a nice fit in the arms and at the bustline.   Oh, I didn't mention that my upper arms are usually WAY bigger than most skinny-minny patterns.  I used to have muscles, now I have....something else.   That could be another whine, but I've learned to accept it.   Sort of.  If I REALLY want to whine about something, all I need do is look at my neck!  But let's not go there.....

Any thoughts, suggestions, observations, experience, or general ramblings on any of the above are welcomed!

Here's another recent garden pic to leave you with - my favorite lily plus a cat :)